Compared to yesterday, today was terrible. But sometimes terrible is good. If you know how to surf these kind of waves, terrible is good.
And these girls know exactly how to surf these waves. I keep telling them how these days will make them stronger paddlers, gain more wave knowledge, and make them mentally stronger. I teach them to surf anything and appreciate everything. To me, that’s what surfing is all about…
I sat on the beach for a while and enjoined the sunrise. It was too beautiful to take my eyes off it.
Then I paddle out and the girls are already busy catching waves. One of them caught their best wave ever at Diamond Head. From the outside all the way to the beach. That’s a 1:30 minute ride.
The hike back up never gets easy. Half way there, I’m exhausted.
I look back and the girls are smiling the whole way. The adrenaline still pumping. So stoked that they love the challenge.
