Surf and Turf

181

Another chilly North wind morning.  You can hear everyone complaining about how cold it is.  We are all protected by Dove Wetsuits so it’s pretty warm for us.

This girl has become a hunter.  Now she knows how to catch waves by capitalizing on other surfers mistakes.  If someone misses or falls on a wave, she will catch it.

A long boarders dream wave.

And short boarders dream wave if you have the right board.

The girls are ripping.  Now I can’t drop in on them because they will run me over.

So they just drop in on me.  Haha.  But the view from riding behind is pretty amazing.  To think both these girls couldn’t even surf or swim when I met them.  Now they can do cutbacks and spear fish.  Cool!

What happened to the sand at Diamond Head???  Just 4 days ago this beach was filled with sand.  Now it’s all gone!

I sat in the cold to watch Mateus play in his soccer game.  I just watch and laugh.  These kids are so cute!

Then we went to do some intensive yard work.  I’m tired of paying people to clean the yard.  If they do a good job, it’s ok.  But when they don’t, you end up doing it yourself anyway.  So the yardman is fired and we are the new team.  Thank you Mateus for helping us out today.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide