Broken Fins and Broken Hearts

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Clear sky, cool winds, warm water, and another epic day in Hawaii.

This morning was peaceful, BUT yesterday wasn’t.  There were 3 Japanese tourist surfers out at Bowls yesterday at the peak.  Paddling for all the waves, including the ones the Uncles were paddling for.  That’s bad manners in the world of surfing.  Visitors taking waves from local Uncles is the worst manners ever.  I’ve seen faces punched, broken fins, and broken hearts.  Those 3 guys were lucky they didn’t paddle out this morning because it would have been very bad.  One of the Uncles out there today would have punched their faces, broken their fins, and sent them all in with broken hearts.  I asked where they were from and I was surprised because they come from a place in Japan where Uncles regulate the lineup.  I still don’t understand why they thought it was ok to surf at Bowls like that???  

This girl can paddle really fast and really hard.  I wish we could gamble here in Hawaii because if she entered the Molokai to Oahu race, I think she would win her division easily.  I’d bet my house on that.

Easily riding her new 6’2 and already thinking about getting a shorter board.  The feeling never ends.  Haha.

Round 2 at Diamond Head.  Practicing wave knowledge, reading currents, identifying locals, and having fun.  Another successful Boot Camp day!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide