Mild Heart Attack

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This morning was super fun.  There were no locals out and just a few Japanese visitors.  Very respectful so very welcomed.  The waves were good when it came as you can see.  This girl on her 5’11 Great White twin fin surfing faster than I’ve ever seen.  

It’s not easy to jump off and come in on the rocks.  I’ve seen lots of surfers fall, get cut, and even ding their boards.  The only way to get better at rock crawling is to crawl on the rocks.  She’s getting better each day.

Then we went to the East side to jump off the cliffs into the ocean.  This spot is the deadliest spot on the island which claims lives each year.  You better know it, understand it, and respect it.

Went to Costco after and I accidentally drank a couple energy drink samples by mistake.  Immediately after, I almost had a heart attack.  It’s still pumping fast so I don’t know how I’m going to sleep tonight.  But will try.  Goodnight and good morning.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide