Let’s Adventure

135

Some people like adventure.  And there is plenty of adventure in Hawaii.  We went to check out surf spots that are very hard to access.  Super secret spots that nobody will be out even on a Sunday afternoon.  This particular spot I use to surf in high school.  And it’s been that long since I’ve been back.  So experiencing this again brought back some great memories.  

There were some chest high waves with offshore winds.  Perfect conditions where you can choose any wave you want to ride.  It was so fun!  

Adventure also means walking down the cliff at Diamond in the pitch dark.  Riding your first wave before the sun even rises.  I can’t even describe how good the feeling is.  

Adventure is to paddle out to a spot in the middle of the ocean.  Waiting patiently for that one wave that breaks every hour.  And when it comes, you’re right there to ride it and have the time of your life all to yourself.  The adventure continues…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide