High Risk Nightmares

24

The water in Okinawa is very clean.  It’s so clean that you can open your eyes underwater and see clearly.  When ever I take my friends from Hawaii surfing there, I like to watch their facial expressions when a wave just explodes over the reef.  It’s pretty intimidating because we don’t have waves like this in Hawaii.  This is more like Tahiti.  

I still can’t believe how thick the waves were when we paddled out.  And I still can’t believe that Nakahodo-san was surfing out there by himself before we got out.  That’s pretty crazy.  It’s a very high risk wave with huge consequences.  I would never surf out there alone.

Carter paddled into his first wave I think he was surprised how steep the wave was.  And how shallow it was too.  Thank goodness he completed that wave.  

One mistake and you’re going to get smashed into the reef.  It happened to me 10 years ago and I still get nightmares about it.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide