The morning crowd and evening crowd is so different at every spot in Hawaii. Mornings are more mellow, and evenings are more aggressive. If you surf the same spot in the morning and evening on the same day, you will understand. 
As I was sitting in the lineup waiting for a wave, this little turtle came up to my foot and hit it. I was surprised! With all the shark attacks recently, everybody’s been on edge. 
The first Boot Camp I did with Seira-chan was about 8 years ago. I started her off on a huge 10’0 longboard. Throughout the years, she’s been riding smaller boards and connecting very well. It’s pretty cool to see her surfing so well on a high performance shortboard now. 
When you start to forget about the basic fundamentals of surfing, I won’t hesitate to put you back on a 11’0. You will be humbled, and you will learn how to learn again. And when you show me that you can ride a 11’0 like this, you can go back on your shortboard. Then you will be amazed on how better you just got. 
I was teaching someone how to dive under big waves. He figured it out and actually perfected it. I love to watch people experiencing things like this for the first time.
