The other day my life almost changed. I took off on a wave trying to get the normal photo from behind. I do this hundreds of times but this one was different. The guy fell, shot his board at me, and I was in total disbelief. 
I see the board coming towards me very quickly, I try to stick my hand out but it was too late. 
I failed to block it and his surfboard went under my surfboard. I was going pretty fast so when I ran it over, my board felt like it his a wall and stopped immediately. I flew over the front head first. 
Low tide mornings means it’s very shallow. I thought I was going to hit my head on the reef for sure. All I was thinking was “oh no, I’m going to the hospital today.” 
Luckily my head missed the reef by millimeters. I pushed off the reef with my hand and the wave pushed me down even further. I surfaced with no injuries. I was a lucky man that day. 
The other guys surfboard didn’t look too good after that. That was from the fin of my surfboard. Luckily it wasn’t his head right? After this accident, I told myself that I won’t shoot photos from behind again. Then the next day, I was doing the same thing. Haha.
