Another amazing morning session. Nakahodo-san flowing with the ocean.
Good weather, clear water, warm, and a nice south swell. This is paradise.
Nakagami-san trying out his new board today. So far, it’s looking really good.
Nice rides for this happy man.
She keeps going, going, and going.
I came home to take a nap when the boys called me and said “Uncle Kirby, can we come over to play?” How can I say no to these kids? Impossible.
We played for a while, I sent them back home, then went back for Round 2. We surfed my secret spot. Nobody out, overhead, powerful, and lots of current. Felt good to surf some empty and powerful waves! Tired and sleepy. Goodnight.