Big Wave Experience of a Lifetime

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This photo will be looked at over and over by the girl who dove under this big wave.  Her blue 6’4 surfboard looks like a toy compared to that wave.  I don’t think she really knew how big that wave was.  This photo will also be looked at over and over by the guy who unsuccessfully made it under that wave in time.  That little black dot is his head and when this wave came crashing down on him, it took him so deep down that everything turned black.  Barely making it to the surface, he survived and will be telling this story to his kids and grandchildren for the rest of his life.  Just by this single wave, 2 lives changed.  Welcome to the big wave world ladies and gentlemen.

 

 

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide