That swell was still here this morning. Really nice conditions and very few surfers.
Things are back to normal as the Uncles are controlling the lineup. Laughing, making jokes, and taking turns. This is what surfing is all about.
Mr. Smiles taking off in the right place. Good to see you catch all those perfect waves again and again Malcom!
The “duck dive” feels good. Pushing your surfboard under a wave and feeling the energy of the ocean flowing like a river through your face and body. Perfecting this will enable you to catch more waves, get out faster, and break less boards. It’s all good.
A perfect duck dive!
These 2 girls are training for the next big swell. So now they won’t be paddling in from Bowls anymore, they will be swimming in.
Went out for Round 2 this afternoon with this amazing kid. Photos coming tomorrow. Goodnight for now…
