Surf and Romance

58

I’ve been taking Leo surfing since he was a little boy so we have a good bond.  Surfing created that bond and now it continues.  Leo is growing up into a fine young man.  Our conversations aren’t about kids stuff anymore, it’s more about young adulthood.  A very smart young man that can surf really good, considering he only surfs when he comes to Hawaii.

We rode some beautiful waves together.  I was cheering from behind as he was enjoying the ride.

Leo told me “I remember you telling me that the ocean fixes everything.  Remember I had a bee sting last time and it hurt.  Then once we entered the ocean, the pain was gone.  And today my shoulder was hurting but now the pain is gone.”  Yes Leo, the ocean fixes everything!

Nice looking fish came swimming through the lineup.  All I could think about was sashimi!

Ended the day up at Tantalus.  Fresh air, nice view, and very romantic…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide