Thank you for that wave!

83

Full moon surf this morning at Bowls.  Small but fun if you had the right surfboard.  

Today’s lesson was about timing.  Paddling for the wave and standing up at the perfect time.  Turning the board while going down the wave with style and grace.  

Also keeping calm and going with the flow.  Just like this.

And being able to jump on a longboard on one wave, and a short board on the other.  That takes talent and the girls have that mastered.

Yes, I had to give the girls scoldings but after 20 waves, they finally figured it out.

Leading by example is how I teach.  If I can’t do it, then how am I supposed to teach them how to do it?  So all the waves they miss, I catch it, surf it how I want them to surf it, pull out, then paddle back out and say “Thank you very much for that wave you missed.”  

Yesterday foiling, today surfing a mid-length and loving life.  I hope I don’t have to scold the girls tomorrow and if they miss any waves, you know who will be on it.  Haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide