I forgot to put my cameras in my car this morning so it felt a lot different. It felt free, but irresponsible. Haha. Not having to ride along the side and get hit by other surfers surfboards for a day was nice. So I just surfed, surfed, and surfed.
Thank goodness Allen was out as a backup cameraman. He’s been taking some pretty cool photos which are getting better each day. He caught one of me taking off on my new 7’6. This board works in knee high waves and I’m pretty sure it will work in 10′ waves too. Can’t wait for that.
I use to always ride my big wave surfboards in town just to feel it out. Feel the paddle, feel the buoyancy, and gain confidence before paddling into my first 10′ wave on the North Shore.
This board feels really good. It feels like I can take off easily on huge waves and it feels like I can turn it too.
Not too many 7’6 boards will turn like this so I call it “magic.” A new magic board to my collection that you will be seeing very often.
Opps, forgot the girls were out riding longboards. Now they are finally bored so we’re jumping back on the shortboards tomorrow. Not me, I’m going to ride my magic 7’6 everyday!
