The last 5′ swell we had, we got really lucky to paddle out to a spot where there was just us. The waves were way overhead and offshore. The lesson for that day was to paddle with confidence, paddle hard, and make sure you catch the wave. The reason is because if you miss a wave, there will be bigger waves behind. And that’s the last place you want to be on a big day. 
Staying low and focus on looking forward. And when you’re riding the right size board, it’s pretty easy to succeed. If you have the wrong board, you will fail. So yes, board selection on the big days is very important.
We practiced on the longboard for 5 days straight. This is where the girls learned how to time the waves better. And when you can time the waves better, you will surf better.
Then you can start taking steps forward, look cool, and feel so excited. 
Now it’s time to walk to the nose. That is coming really soon.
Shiina-san gave me this sticker he designed. It says “Don’t think, feel.” I love it!
