Head rush or Sea sick

38

Super happy to have my classmate back in Hawaii.  Rio san’s been practicing in Japan and her level is way higher than last year.  Look at this smooth ride!

As you can see, the waves were really good this morning.  Lots of waves and lots of people.  But coming from Japan, this is very uncrowded.  And also epic waves!

This girl is putting in the time on the 7’6 because when the waves get giant again, she wants to feel comfortable on this board.  That’s one less thing to worry about.  

These are the moments every surfer dreams about.  A perfect wave at sunrise.

Hang on Rio san!  Great surfing today!

For the past 11 years, I’ve been scrubbing the bottom of Mayuki every month.  Making sure it’s clean and making sure there are no barnacles forming.  Some people think this is a dirty job but this is very therapeutic for me.  It’s a good exercise, I’m relaxed, my breath holds are getting longer, and most importantly, I’m taking care of my beautiful baby.  

Try to scrub underwater a in an upside down position.  You’re either going to get a good head rush, or you’re going to get major seasick.  I get a natural high!  Haha.

Great shots Mighty Mouse!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide