Last Minute Ride

74

Everybody was surprised again as today was even bigger and better than yesterday.  The surf report didn’t see this swell coming so if you woke up early and surfed, you scored.  It was perfect!

These are the days Hawaii feels like Indonesia.  Perfect conditions and really easy to surf.  

We’ve been still practicing on the big boards and the girls are getting super comfortable on it.  Paddling for the biggest waves of the day and riding it perfectly.  They told me today “I can’t wait to surf bigger waves!”  

The advantages of riding a longer surfboard is you can pop up faster, turn on the higher part of the wave, and have nice walls in front of you.  Just like this.

Round 2 at Diamond Head.  A lot bigger than yesterday so this must be a new swell!

A bird flying by as this girl paddles for the biggest set.

 

The take off looks so smooth and easy.  The timing is perfect, and the rest of the ride is pure joy.

Ridden from the very outside of Diamond Head all the way to the beach.  That’s over a 1 minute ride!  Good job girl!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide