Tako and Drama

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I’m trying to teach this girl how to hunt for tako.  So far, she can find the tako, but is still practicing trying to get it out of the hole.  It takes time and once you figure it out, your success rate will be around 90%.  Until then, it could be 0%.

No tako this time, maybe next time.  Haha.

Getting the tako out of the hole is a little tricky.  It will push rocks in front of you, it will camouflage itself, or it will shoot black ink on you.  You just have to be patient which is hard to do when the tako is so deep under water.  One breath, one tako…

I tell the girls that they can drop in on me anytime they want.  BUT, don’t miss the wave!  If they miss the wave, I’ve been making them pay for it by giving them a salt water shower.  Haha.  

Every single day, these locals surf Diamond Head.  They are kind, respectful, happy, and rippers.  The coolest thing about surfing Diamond Head is that there is absolutely no drama.  Only good times…

Surfers are very street smart.  They will find a way to do anything and everything.  How genius is this?  Nobody has an arm long enough to put sunscreen on your back, but in this case, you don’t need one.  Just figure it out.  Haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide