Wave of your lives…

35

Atsushi Inamura at Bowls this morning.  The waves were 3-5′ and perfect.  The best swell direction so every wave was as good as it gets.

So stoked to see cool Japanese like Atsushi that respects the locals.  And that’s why the locals respect him and his surfing.

This morning we paddled out to the “super full blue moon.”

The girls took out their big boards and caught the biggest waves of this swell.  Taking off so easily and popping up at the top of the wave getting ready for the long ride down.

This is the fastest you will go down a wave like this.  This girl ended up riding her best wave of her life this morning and it wasn’t this wave.  It was a perfect left set wave at Bowls!

Round 2 with the boys and girls.  Everyone cheering on each other and everyone riding perfect waves this afternoon.  The waves were still pumping with epic conditions.  The 2 boys ended riding the best waves of their lives too.  Everybody scored today!

There was a monk seal sleeping on the beach before we paddled out.  He must have woken up because he decided to swim right past us as we were waiting for a wave.  So cool to see things like this.

 

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide