After years of hard work, everything is falling into place. She’s riding the best surfboards, she’s wearing the best wetsuits, and she’s surfing like a world champion. Haha. Well, not quite like a world champion, but her dream is to surf like Carissa Moore. We train physically and mentally in and out of the water, experiment on different surfboards, we talk equipment, I yell, she yells, she cries, but I don’t cry. Haha. I told her in the beginning that if you want to be a great surfer, it’s going to take hard work to get there. And when you work hard, you will see results like this. Just a few years ago, she could only go straight, now she can go vertical. And the cool thing is it’s only going to get better…
