I never have high expectations for a South swell but this morning was a surprise. A tiny swell perfectly timed for Inoue-san. 
Watching guys getting better and better each wave is rewarding. Inoue-san caught about 20 long waves progressing each one. Cool style!
It was a beautiful morning at Bowls. 
Nobody thought there would be waves this morning so it was uncrowded. Scott was surfing the rights all to himself. 
Grandma Jo is 77 years old and loving life. 
If it weren’t for foiling, I would have never met Big Mike. The coolest big wave charger both on a surfboard and foil board.
I went home, turned on the A/C, put my head down on the sofa for a nap, then I saw my new board leaning against the wall. I turned off the A/C, splashed water on my face, waxed up one of the boards, and jumped on Mayuki. Today I thought I’d spoil myself. 
It’s been a few months since I had some alone time. And when I’m alone, there is nowhere else I’d rather be. Searching for the perfect wave. 
I passed by Rockpiles and saw some perfect chest high waves. I secured the anchor, jumped in, and went to join the boys.
Only a few locals out so we were taking turns. This was my turn and I was so excited to ride this amazing wave!
I didn’t have a leash so I was just cruising on the waves I caught. Felt great so far and can’t wait to push it full throttle! Thank you boys for sharing the waves in that tight lineup. I came home, turned on the A/C, and took a nap with a big smile…
