I’ve been working very hard with this girl to get her to her goal, which is to surf like World Champion Carissa Moore. Yesterday morning, she finally figured out how to attack the lip like a pro. Once she builds that muscle memory, her surfing is going to be powerful and stylish, just like Carissa. 
Daisuke-san is a very smart surfer. He knows how to manage a lineup. He knows not to drop in on other surfers, he knows not to get in anyones way, he knows how to paddle around back out, and he knows to go when I say “GO!” I was yelling “GO” on this set of the day! 
Dr. Ryu-san likes a challenge. So after a couple waves on the longboard, he looked at my board and said “can I try it?” Well, he didn’t exactly say that, I could read his mind. Haha. So I let him try it and his first wave he popped up and rode this wave. After that, I never got my board back until we got back to the beach. 
If you let a surfer try a magic board and he likes it, good luck getting it back. Haha. Dr. Ryu-san even told me that he’s going to take this board back to Japan. If he does, I’m going to call the police! Haha.
