We paddled out in the pitch dark again. Now my eyes are a lot more adjusted and now I can sense a lot more. So this morning was a lot easier than yesterday.
I was riding behind Ryu-san on the first few waves. I could barely see him but I could hear him yelling “Whew, whew!!!”
As the sun creeped up, the rides were a lot more clear.
You can’t beat surfing in perfect conditions like this. It was so smooth!
Just a few locals out again as the daily morning life goes on. Another morning with zero visitors.
Jerome caught one of the best rights of the morning.
If you look forward and bend your knees, you will be surprised on your success rate. It’s at almost at. a 100%.
Ryu-san bending his knees and looking forward. He caught so many good waves this morning on my magic board. Every time he paddled back out, he was looking at my board and I know what he was thinking. Ryu-san was thinking, “how can I get this magic board from Kirby?” Then he looked at me and we started laughing. Haha.
