Just the local uncles out this morning again. Slow waves but perfect if you have the right surfboard.
Ojiro-kun looking super good today. He’s gradually making his way down to his goal, which is to shortboard.
Perfect style and perfect smile.
Ojiro-kun asked me how he can paddle faster. I told him, “get off your board and swim in.” Experiences like this is the only way to build padding muscles. He ended up swimming all the way in. Not too many surfers can swim that far without giving up.
Straight back out for Round 2 with Kaneko-san. We were working on his backside surfing as it will only make his frontside surfing better.
Super cool guy that surfs in Chiba. He couldn’t believe how far out to sea we were. In Chiba, you can literally walk out to the surf break. Not in Hawaii.
Good rides on a magic board. Another epic day in Hawaii!
