yesterday was an awesome day. it started out at 6am when i went to pick up double Yasu-san! yeah, two yasu-san’s from saitama. two great surfers and two great people. we were heading out to velzyland early morning before the sun came up. on the way, i didn’t see any cars parked at backdoor so i thought something was strange. i pull over, we go check the waves, and only 1 surfer was out at pipeline/backdoor? what? really? i tell the two yasu-san’s that today is their lucky day. the waves were perfect! forget velzyland, grab your boards cause we are going to get barreled at backdoor!!! we paddle out and have the time of our lives. my first wave i got my best and longest barrel of my north shore season. and guess what? the sun wasn’t even up yet! yasu-san and yasu-san caught so many waves and even got barreled. what an awesome session!!! no broken boards, no broken bones, and no broken teeth. lucky we survived because it was so dam shallow!
To Yasu-san and Yasu-san,
It was nice to meet the both of you.
Thank you for checking out my blog, and thank you for supporting “WE ARE ONE.”
Please don’t tell anybody where my secret chinese restaurant is. haha.
Have a great stay in Hawaii and hope you get good waves again today.
WE ARE ONE!
Aloha,
Kirby
for round 2 in the afternoon, i went to pick up Komori-san from Saitama and headed to makapuu. on the way, we stopped by sandy’s and guess what? there was only 1 surfer out!!! what? really? we park the car, we paddle out, then that one guy goes in. it was just komori-san and i sitting in the ocean as we were talking story. then all of a sudden, 2 giant whales jump right outside of the lineup. OMG!!! we were both yelling and so happy as the whales jumped full body out of the water and made the hugest splash. then a turtle swam by and that freak of nature was better than the waves. we were happy and surfing sandy beach was the right choice for this afternoon.
To Komori-san,
Thank you for a great day in the nature!
I had a great time talking to you about Tohoku.
I’m so happy to have met somebody that went to volunteer 10 times.
Your a great person and I’m proud to know surfers that did so much for the people in Tohoku.
Keep on surfing, keep on smiling, and keep on your missions!
Enjoy the rest of your vacation with your family in Hawaii.
WE ARE ONE!
Aloha,
Kirby
*i think i’m totally sunburned and surfed out. i’ll be on a secluded island on the other side of the world in 2 days. yes, it takes that long to get there. first to japan, then to singapore, then to bangkok, then to male. my long journey starts NOW.
