For every single morning, every single day, this is my last part of my exercise. I end with a headstand before leaving my house. This keeps the blood flowing, this keeps me alert, and this keeps me ready for anything. I make sure I leave home the same as if I’m surfing a knee high wave, or a 10′ wave. My morning routine never changes.
This morning was so beautiful! Maybe that’s why it was so crowded? But crowds don’t matter if you you’re on the right board surfing with the right people.
Can’t beat this view.
It was still dark as Hashimoto-san caught his first wave. Super calm and comfortable. He improved so much from this weeks Boot Camp. A totally new man!
Surfing style has been perfected so now it’s time to move on to off the lips and full round house cutbacks. Looking forward to that!
Been doing this for 35 years and it’s still very confusing. You’re only allowed to bring one or two boards so you better make the right choice. This decision is make or break for a surf trip. Chose properly and enjoy, or take the wrong boards and suffer.
