We were driving down the mountain this morning and I could see the waves breaking so perfectly. Just like yesterday, my heart started pumping and I was so excited. I surfed here before so I knew it was going to be epic! My first wave was blinding. It was so windy offshore that I couldn’t see a thing taking off on the waves. I just paddled my hardest and let the muscle memory do the rest. Gosh, it felt so good catching a wave I knew was going to break perfectly for a very long time! 
This wave is so perfect that it’s like a dream wave. You’re going full speed and the wave keeps on going and going. There is no wave comparable to this in Hawaii and if there were, there would be a thousand surfers fighting for it. 
After multiple trips to Taiwan over a three decade span, this was the best waves I ever scored here. You never know what to expect and when you get something like this, it’s a beautiful thing. 
I came in after Round 1 and we paddled right back out for Round 2. OMG, Kimura-san caught a pretty big wave and rode it right over the sharp shallow reef right over the rocks. I closed my eyes watching that because I knew he was going to get hurt. Thank goodness his wetsuit saved his life.
