I had a feeling that a secret spot I use to surf would be good today. It’s a very far drive and an even farther paddle. It’s always a gamble to go out there, but I like to gamble. Good tide, good winds, and good swell direction. This is what makes surfing so exciting. It’s actually like going on a mini surf trip because nobody surfs there on days like this.
Even though it was high tide this morning, it was still very shallow. I would keep on hitting the reef when I was siting on my board. But when the waves came, it was perfect!
Surfed for an hour, caught so many long waves, and had the time of my life. It’s these winter days I love the most. Everybody is scrambling around the island to surf and when you score, it’s a great feeling!
