Straight North Dreams

14

We arrive at Laniakea really early in the morning.  I got out of the car and checked the waves.  OMG, it was so good and only one surfer out?  Why?  I was looking for a shark sign or something.  Then I figured that everywhere on the North shore was good today so the surfers were spread out everywhere.  We waxed our boards and was running down the beach.  A chance of a lifetime!

We caught some really good waves and within an hour, there were more and more surfers paddling out.  Look how good it was!

On a normal day, there would be a hundred surfers out here.  Today wasn’t normal and every wave had a clean and clear view with not a single surfer around.

Mighty Mouse got the rides of her life today.  She was so happy!

After Round 1, we went looking at other spots.  Checked Haleiwa and it was good too!  Not too many guys out on this picture perfect day.

The waves were shoulder high and perfect.  Fun and long rights for everyone.

Mighty Mouse put on her bikini, grabbed her shorter board, and went out for Round 2.

I’m guessing that every single surf spot on the North Shore was really good this morning.  Good swell direction, no wind, warm water, and perfectly sunny.  These are the days every surfer dreams of…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide