Backdoor: Ride or Die Part 5

7

So as I was taking the drop, my fins slid sidewards and I couldn’t regain control.  I tried until the last second which was about right about now.  Now looking back, I wish I had bent my knees more because if I made it, that would have been the best recovery of my life.  

This is where I looked for a safe spot to land.  It’s crazy how fast things are happening but my mind is so calm that I have lots of time to think.  I was thinking that I’d better fall before the wave crashes on my head.  So you can see I start to angle my left shoulder down so I can penetrate the surface and not get sucked over the wave backwards.  

Left arm first, then shoulder will follow.  I’m looking exactly where I want to crash.  That wipeout looked and felt super crazy but it was actually pretty safe.  But we all know that a safe landing is only part of the outcome.  Mother Nature takes control of the rest…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide