Opps, I forgot to push the post button so this one didn’t upload. It’s from February 24, 2025 which seems like years ago.
I got up really early this morning and one part of me said to go to the North shore. The other part said to take it slow today. So I listened to the smarter part of me. Just a friend and I got to enjoy another morning at a secret spot. Nobody out and perfect head high waves with lots of power. 
The waves were so good that I could do 4 turns on every wave. It felt pretty good being so free. 
I came home and heard the news of another experienced surfer getting hurt at Pipeline this morning. He hit his head on the reef and went unconscious. The lifeguards gave him CPR on the beach and bought him back to life. He was rushed to the hospital and we are all hoping for the best. I won’t say his name out of respect for his family. Seeing things like this is hard if you surf out there because this can happen to anyone and anytime. I thought about this all day long…
