The waves have been small but if you know where to surf on these small days, you can still hit the lip pretty hard. John hitting the lip as hard as you can. Just some locals and us enjoying this beautiful Friday morning.
Tokura-san’s been surfing every single day! I can see his body becoming stronger and stronger. He’s paddling faster, popping up faster, and turning sharper. So good to see that!
Deco-san is still catching way more waves than all of us put together. Smooth surfing and very long rides.
I taught a new technique to Rocky today. Once she applied it, her surfing level jumped up to a whole new level.
From knowing absolutely nothing about surfing and the ocean 5 years ago, it’s pretty impressive how she can paddle out to any spot, find good waves like this, and surf it well.
Tokura-san and I sharing secret surf spot photos during lunch. The Japan surf culture and surf spots are very protected. We talk about it to each other, but never to anyone else. Tokura-san taught me how to be loyal, and how to keep silent. And now I understand why I still can surf those secret spots without getting beaten up. Thank you Tokura-san for teaching me the respectful way of exploring…
I found the place selling cherry blossom branches so I had to buy some. I’ve probably spent 25 cherry blossom seasons in Japan and now I can enjoy it right in my own house.
I’ll keep you posted when I see the first pink sakura! Can’t wait!