good evening. north shore 2′ in the morning, 10′ + by this afternoon. another strong ground swell and these waves should be lasting for a while. strong winds but nobody is complaining. i seen guys getting huge barrels this evening at pipe. even town had some waves this evening. chest high and perfect off shore. but everywhere looking freakin cold… hope you had a great day and didn’t catch a cold. seems like everybody is getting sick recently. including me. maybe because of the cold weather??? wanna know what i did all afternoon? i was on the phone with blackberry support trying to figure out how to post a blog from my phone. getting transfered and transfered to different departments with no clear answers. frustrated? yup. do i like my new phone? no. i feel like throwing it off a mountain. anybody know how to fix this problem? if you do, please help!! i hate high tech stuff. and i especially hate trying to learn about it. ahhhh…. i’m not touching my phone for the next few days and just going to focus on surfing. that’s a much better life… anyway, keep warm and eat healthy…. have a nice evening….
oh, wanted to say hello to yoshi and his staff at latina in osaka!!! hope to see you in april….
**last, remember i told you that don king sent me a clip from back in the day? this was backdoor i think 10 years ago. i remember don king swimming around on a pretty big day with his huge movie camera. i remember getting a wave and hooking up with him. i didn’t know if he got it or not because i haven’t heard anything. well, until last week. don got it and i’m freakin stoked… check it out. and let me just say this, “old footage never dies”.. i feel like the luckiest person on earth. thank you don king for capturing a barrel that i will never ever forget….
