Slow Down and GARUT ON SURFLINE….

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good morning. wow, i slept for over 12 hours!! i was feeling down yesterday but feel much better today. everybody is telling me to slow down. but i don’t know how to. does slow down mean “not surfing/diving/going out with my friends?” if that’s so, i can’t do that… i’m going to take it easy one more day and go back to my fast life. getting sick sucks. but i guess it’s my body telling me something. something i should listen too. for now, i’m in slow mode. that means my phone will be off today, and i’m not going to be on my computer all day. put in a DVD, and chill… hope your all feeling much better than i am. if your not, you should slow down too… have a nice day….
oh, wanna know how the waves are? still big on the north shore. looks solid 4-6′ and out of the north today. sunset? haleiwa? yup, probably going off. town is small but fun. strong winds. surf safe….

remember that epic pipeline day last week? i do….

shun’s last day, i took him to foodland to buy ice cream and stuff for a smoothie. and stuff to make cookies. he asked me if he could buy an apple and picked a huge fuji apple from aomori. it was soooo sweet….

just another barbecue at the go-naminori house. gosh, i love this place…
**i just watched this pretty awesome video of garut on surfline. the kid’s ripping, and the kid has a dream to be the first indonesian to make the WCT. if anybody can do it, it’s garut!!
**CLICK HERE FOR GARUT’S AWESOME VIDEO….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide