It was a beautiful morning and the waves were really good. Head high sets and perfect conditions. I paddled out in the dark and saw some perfect unridden waves. Gosh, it’s been a good few weeks of waves! 
It’s been a while since I got to surf with Lance Hookano. Every time he paddles out, the session becomes much better. Great stories, great laughs, and great guy. 
Lance has a lot of Hawaiian blood in him and a lot of surfing experience too. He doesn’t have to surf for a year and he will come back stronger than ever. 
Earlier in the morning, Malcom broke his surfboard. I saw him paddle in on half of his board. 1 hour later, the boys see the other half of his board floating in the ocean down by Magic Island. I went to grab it, and luckily the break was clean. I hope he can put it back together again.
