good evening. had stuff to do today so i stayed in town and jumped in at bowls. it was the warmest day since october. sunny, no wind, clean water, and nice little waves. paradise.. i was watching pipe later on the cams and the bodyboarders scored. 8-10′ and pretty heavy barrels. tomorrow should be another great day for surf out on the north shore….
speaking of pipeline, this surfboard will always be a reminder to me on how lucky i was the last big swell out there. i still can’t believe i made it to the beach without a scratch on my body…
dings on the rails…
dings on the nose….
buckled board….
2 fins completely ripped out. smashed rails. how the heck did this happen???? was i lucky that day at pipe? what do you think??? i’m going to keep this board outside my house as a reminder to SLOW DOWN….
