Oakley Surfing Life Big Wave Winner….

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good morning. 7am tuesday morning. waves on the north shore came down. looks 3-5′ at pipe with 40 guys out. i think today is the last day of the bodyboard contest? hope so. looks a little morning sickness out there right now. gosh, where are those sheet glass perfect not a cloud in the sky and no wind days? last year it came in march. this year too? i can’t wait… but for now, get use to these weird funky morning sickness conditions because the winds aren’t going to back down anytime soon. town still has that south swell with perfect waist high waves. yesterday evening, bowls looked so fun… anyway, going airport, then going surfing… see ya…

wanted to congratulate australian mark mathews for winning the oakley surfing life big wave award. check out this giant 45′ wave that won him $20,000. i met mark 5 years ago in the philippines during the cloud 9 international contest with the boys, sunny alberton and kingy. these guys are part of the notorious bra boys out of maroubra, australia. i heard a lot about their gang back then but these guys were the nicest people on earth. great people, great surfers. and if you haven’t seen the movie “bra boys”, you should check it out. it’s pretty cool….

this is my favorite pre-drink. it’s called “ukon” and is supposed to be really good in preventing hangovers. drink it before you have a night out with the boys and you should be ok in the morning. well, it doesn’t work all the time. i drank one every night when i was in okinawa, and it didn’t work…

speaking of okinawa, this is awamori from okinawa. every time i see this bottle come out, i run away… the strongest shochu in the world. it will kick your ass!!!

and last, stopped by lotus night club in waikiki last night to check out maki claude’s live event. the place was jam packed with people, mostly japanese girls. it’s amazing how many fans claude has. i went upstairs in the vip area and once i seen the tequila bottle with shots lined up on the table, i ran away and went home. good call…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide