opened my email late last night and found this photo gordinho sent me. it was taken at backdoor yesterday morning. even though the barrel isn’t a big one, it still felt pretty good to be in there. we still have 2 more months of this north shore season left and before it’s over, i’m going to get a HUGE one! thank you gordinho for this beautiful photo.
i had an interview with J-Wave japanese radio yesterday. it was for go-naminori but we ended up talking mostly about We Are One. talking about the things i saw and the stories i heard is hard for me. it brings back all the emotions and makes me want to break down. i’ve been so dam busy from last year that i haven’t had the time to sit down and really think about things. i try to forget the bad, and think about the positive. one thing positive is the wonderful people i met along the way. here are sisters Naomi-san and Ryoko-san from ishinomaki. these two brave and strong women changed me life forever. ever since i met them, i don’t take anything for granted. they taught me how to be strong, they taught me how to fight, and they taught me how to move on. i’m pretty good at tricking my mind so when ever i go down a dark road, i think about the wonderful people i met in tohoku. these are just 2 of the many. Naomi-san and Ryoko-san, i’m always thinking of you and will see you soon. We Are One!
i think the interview is going to be on feb. 21st on J-Wave 81.3FM in japan. please check it out.
