Technique vs. Power: How to Smash the Lip

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1:  Keep low, arms up, and look in the direction you want to go.

2:  As you approach the lip of the wave, still keep low, put your arms up, and lift high.  This is the important part because if your arms aren’t up like this, your surfboard won’t go up.

3:  As your surfboard is hitting the lip of the wave, it’s time to transition back down.  Left hand points back to the beach, right hand goes horizontal with your surfboard.

4:  At this point, you want to extend your back knee and push as hard as you can.  This is the only place on the wave where you push your back foot at 90% and your front foot only steers the board at 10%.  

5:  Follow through and be confident.  This is where many give up and fall.  Keep on your feet, be confident, and you will be surprised how easy this turn is.

6:  Complete a turn like this and you can raise your hands in glory.  Try it and I’m sure you will like it!

Rocky riding a 6’4 x 20″ x 43L Trinx.  This board is not that easy to push like that.  It takes technique more than power.  Even some men can’t turn a big board like that.  It’s all technique.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide