The Lucky 77

12

I started driving towards Bowls early this morning.  I noticed there was no wind so I did a u-turn and headed to the east side.  I knew one of my spots were going to be really good.  It’s a far drive and a far paddle but it’s always worth it.  Nobody out and perfect rights and lefts.  I was so happy!

Then I went to my sisters house and started to polish Mayuki.  Look how shiny she’s getting!  

I still can’t believe how expensive this project is turning out to be.  Just these 3 things is $700.  Add another $3,000 for labor.  Well, I just saved $3,000 on DIY.  

I was looking though my old photos and came across these.  Tokura-san surfing a typhoon in Japan.  Happy as usual and always at the right place at the right time.  

Look at this nice bottom turn.  Lots of speed and lots of commitment.  

20 years later, Tokura-san is now in Indonesia celebrating his 77th birthday still on his surfboard.  That’s so amazing.  Still inspiring many of us.  Happy 77th Birthday Tokura-san!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide