Bowls to Waianae to Mayuki

8

A beautiful day today and a crazy storm forecasted for tomorrow.  Enjoy it while you can.

This is the first swell of the year.  In fact, this is the first swell in the past 6 months.  The south shore is finally waking up.  Swell or no swell, Kyle is always on it.  

Because the waves came up, so did all the silt that was settled on the bottom of the ocean.  So yes, the water is just as dirty as it was a week ago.

It was local time today.  If you’re a visitor, I don’t think you would be able to catch a single wave.

Keone always ripping and having fun doing it.

Hashimoto-san got lucky and caught some really good waves today.  He was in the right place at the right time.

Paddling is better, timing is better, therefore, surfing is better.  Today was his best performance ever!  

After surf, I took a ride to Waianae.  Every time I go to the west side, I always feel like I’m entering another country.  It’s just so different from town.  And yes, the water was still dirty out there too.

The day has come.  I pulled Mayuki out of the ocean this afternoon to give her some tender loving care.  Lots of time and money, but I always feel that if you love something, take care of it.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide