I found a hard drive that I thought I lost. Opened it up and found some classic photos from traveling. This was 20 years ago in the Philippines waiting at a small little airport. Everything was manual, the airplane was tiny, and we had to take out some seats so our board bags could fit. It was pretty scary. As you can see, Tokura-san looked a little concerned. We all did. 
Big Wednesday was today as the big swell pumped solid 5′ sets to Ala Moana.
We surfed Rockpiles because nobody was out. It was huge! This wave looks small but it’s actually big.
Paddling out is very tricky. If you time it right, you will make it out. If you don’t, you won’t make it out. A lot of surfers couldn’t get out today. There were a few broken boards too. Hashimoto-san and Rocky were charging! Today was a day of survival…
Hashimoto-san had the best session this morning. He caught the biggest and thickest wave of his life. After that, he was completely satisfied. I’m sure he will never forget that ride, and never forget that feeling.
