Here was the surf report for today and it was pretty accurate. Yesterday I searched for a perfect wave. Today I went to search for the biggest wave. I drove around and around and ended up finding a spot I’ve never surfed before. I only took my 6’10 because I either wanted to get a big wave or nothing. That was my mentality for the morning. 
Bowls was 8′, big, brown water, and crowded. This spot was different. Big, clean water, and uncrowded. I couldn’t believe what I saw. One of the most perfect barreling rights I’ve ever seen on the south shore in my life. I had to throw my board and dive under about 10 waves like this. It felt like I was surfing the north shore.
My 6’10 was new until today. I got sucked into the reef and it was either my surfboard or me. Last time at Rocky Point I chose my surfboard, today I chose me. 
This was right when I paddled out. I got stuck on the dry reef twice, I even had to push off the reef with my left foot. When I pushed off, I felt intense pain. 30 needles from a sea urchin was sticking out of my foot. I screamed like a girl. My board was damaged, my foot was in pain, but I was still determined to surf.
When you’re surfing, you don’t feel any pain. All you feel is the adrenaline of riding mountains. This day I will remember for the rest of my life. I’m hoping there is still enough swell for this spot tomorrow. We shall see. 
I had a hard time walking back to my car. I soaked my foot in vinegar for 1 hour and there are still spines deep inside. Was it worth it? Absolutely!
