another good chilly morning here in hawaii. 6:30am and i’m in sweatpants, sweatshirt, and socks. and still cold… waves looked like it dropped on the north shore. your best bet will be laniakea again. probably 2-4′ and super long fun rights. gosh, i had a great session yesterday and was thinking about this nice 5′ wave that i rode all the way across in my dreams last night. it might be worth the drive to head back out there again today. going to spend the morning doing my taxes, and jump in the water somewhere after getting all stressed out… doing taxes sucks but if you don’t do it in america, your going to jail. just ask sunny garcia….
i was video chatting with hayato last night. he’s up in hokkaido playing in the snow with tokura-san and friends. gosh, i wish i were there. i remember when i went there a long time ago… it was snowboarding, jumping into an onsen, drinking hot sake, having a great time, and waking up in the middle of the night in waist high deep snow almost frozen to death. i ain’t kidding…
when i was chatting with hayato, he opened his hotel window and stuck his computer out the window so he could show me the mountain. the sky is blue? gosh, i live in hawaii and forgot what blue sky looks like. thanks hayato for making me a little jealous. i’m going to take my computer and pull into a big barrel at backdoor while we’re chatting. how’s that!! haha…
hey, wanted to congratulate my hawaiian buddy over there in okinawa joshua lacar on the new edition of his family. Joshua Kahekili Lai Lacar Jr. was born 2 days ago in okinawa. josh and asano gotta be stoked!! i’m stoked for you guys….
this photo was taken august 27, 2008 at hokulea in the beach resort. josh and asano got married that day and came straight to hokulea. i remember how happy they were. isn’t life so cool. meet your true love, get married, have a baby, and live happily ever after… congratulations again!!!
