good evening. woke up to what i thought was going to be a shitty day for surf. but i was wrong. i pulled up to laniakea at 11am and the waves were going off!!! solid 5′ with bigger sets breaking all the way across. i paddled out the way your not supposed to on big north swells because you will get cleaned up. as i was going to jump in with my 6’0 and thin competition leash, this surfer dude came up to me and said “abunai”. i guess he thought i was japanese. so i said “daijyobu” which means “no worries mate.” he shook his head and walked away. as i jumped in, i knew he was watching me and wanted me to get caught by a big set. i timed it right and made it out untouched. i looked back to the beach to see if the guy was still there and was ready to give him a shaka sign. then there it was, a big 6′ set coming down on my head… shit… i didn’t want to snap my leash so i didn’t let go of my board. i held on and the wave shook me up like a rag doll. i came up a little dizzy and said, it’s time to surf…. i had such a good session with my small board. i felt like kelly slater… haha…
i surfed at 11am. i ate this big lunch at 10:30am. on the way out, i stopped by my favorite local plate lunch restaurant and ordered my favorite liver/bacon, chicken cutlet combo. it was so good….
then i went to the go-naminori house to pick up the girls to bring to town. we went to champa thai, then went to a bar to sing karaoke, then to a strip club, then danced all night long… haha.. just joking… we had a great talk in the car driving back from the north shore. yumie and yumi are helping me out with a book i’m writing. haha.. that’s a joke too… 2 cool girls….
and last, since i haven’t gotten barreled for a long time, i’m going to stare at this photo for the next hour and dream. this backdoor day seemed like years ago…. i can’t wait to do it again…
