good morning. 6:30am this warm monday morning. gosh, it was the first time in months that i didn’t need a blanket. is hawaii back to normal? hope so. well, the waves are still big on the north shore. i saw a couple 6-8′ perfect barrels at pipe. i bet sunset and haleiwa are pretty good too. town is small but looking fun. the winds look good everywhere but might turn onshore by mid morning. it’s overcast again but the weather report says it should be clearing up this week. the suns haven’t been out for a while so i’m getting pretty white. everybody is. i’m going surfing. have a nice day!! oh, i see a big storm going through the north shore right now. the sky is black and the wind just turned weird. yuck…
norihiko “matchi” nakayama is one of the first guys i met when i went to japan. nice, kind, cool, funny, and respectful are some of his best traits. everybody likes matchi and i consider him family to me. we grew up surfing with each other for the past 17 years and have thousands of memories. i have some photos on the wall in my house and you have to be one of my good friends to be up there. why? because i have to look at your ass every single day.. haha… matchi is up there and this isn’t the only photo with him in. 1994 japan….
i shot this photo 2 years ago when i first started shooting. when i was cleaning out my computer, i almost threw it away. i’m glad i didn’t because this one is a keeper…
**well, great news for all you matchi fans. matchi shapes, surfs, and knows how to have a good time. he just started a blog and i’ll be checking it everyday. yeah matchi!! ganbatte!! see you soon in shikoku….
**CLICK HERE FOR MATCHI BLOG….
and last, this is the reason i’m going to japan. the TSSC users cup is happening sunday, april 5th in shikoku. i’m going with tony and seth moniz. we’re doing a surf school on saturday, april 4th so make reservations fast because space is limited…. more info BY CLICKING HERE ON GO-NAMINORI.COM….
