good evening. woke up and checked out the buoy. 9 feet 19 seconds early morning so that means BIG by afternoon. when i checked the waves at 7am, it was only 2-3′. then when we pulled up 2 hours to check out backdoor, the waves were on the rise. maybe 6′ and pumping…
this is Made Adi Putra or better known as Bali ripper “BOL”. he came to town last night to watch the UFC fights with us. we were driving our way out to pipe and i could imagine what he was thinking, “shit man, i’ve been here for 3 weeks and the waves and winds have been shitty everyday. i wonder if i will finally get a big pipe barrel today so i can finally go back to bali”…. go Bol…
there were 2 policemen pulling over speeders this morning at the haleiwa bypass. please drive slow, and drive safe….
pulled up to backdoor to check the waves and every single japanese on the north shore was there. that’s jun jo, ryu nakamura, tetta mori, u-ske in this photo. kinsan, kondo-san, shuji kasuya, and more… i call the guys from japan that come in march “hardcore”….
we ended up surfing velzyland. today was the kind of day where you could have your best session ever, or your worst. it was already too big but there would be a sick double up every so often. as i was paddling out, i seen pancho sullivan get one of the heaviest barrels i’ve ever seen ridden at velzyland. i paddled out and said “ho, how was that one?”. pancho answered “that was probably the best barrel i’ve ever gotten in my life out here”. enough said…. as for my session, i was duckdiving 20 waves straight before catching one. then another 20 waves again before catching another. after a few rounds of that and fighting the current, it was time to go in. the waves got too big but i loved the workout….
after eating some awesome thai curry at the lunch wagon in haleiwa, it was time for the long drive home. rain makes me tired and i’m glad i made it home safe… going to bed and waking up early tomorrow morning. surfing again!! good night….[:Zzz:]
