Labor of Love

21

Round 1:  It’s crazy how big it was yesterday and how small it was today.  The swell is gone!

Mighty Mouse was hunting and found this perfect wave.

Back on the shortboard practicing the turns.

Looking better and better each day.

Rocky looked bored today.  I think the girls rather surf 10′ big closeouts rather than this.  Haha.

About 10 years ago when my boat broke, I hired a mechanic to fix it.  He charged me $500 to do the job and it took him over an hour of labor.

This time, I fixed it myself.  The part only cost $100.  So the labor last time was $400?

Fifteen minutes later, the job was done.  If I was a boat mechanic, I’d be a millionaire.  But no thank you, I’d still rater be a surfer!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide