i couldn’t believe that today was my first day off in a long time. ever since 2012 started, i’ve been working pretty much every day. before i went to sleep late last night, i knew the waves were going to be junk today. i slept good knowing that. but still woke up at 6:30 am to check. haha. i’m the type of surfer who doesn’t want to miss anything. the waves were junk so i called up the boys and went shopping. from tomorrow, i work every single day so today was a good break for me. i’m super stoked to be able to hang out with my friends day and night!
hey matsu, thanks for sending me this photo from mentawai! this is bank vaults??? awesome! i can’t wait to go there in may! i’m glad you had a great trip and glad you got good waves. yes, it’s out of season now and there aren’t supposed to be waves in the indian ocean but we don’t believe in that right? if you don’t go, you won’t know! right? i’m stoked for you to be surfing such good waves. mission 6 is coming soon so let’s get things going. i’m glad naomi-san’s shop in ishinomaki is moving forward. please let her know what we are all behind her 100%. i’ll be busy pretty much everyday until april but i’m looking forward to visiting our friends in tohoku. keep on surfing, work hard, and see you soon! aloha!
