i get up at 4:45am, i pick up the gang at 6:30am, and we head out to the north shore. it’s the first time for them so imagine walking up to pipeline hearing the pounding of the ocean, and finally see the worlds most famous surf point right in front of you. yes, pipeline is a true power spot.
i grab my 7’0, catch a couple of waves, and come in a pretty happy man. who has the best job in the world? me!
then we decide to circle the island on the way back home. thank you yuki-san for driving. it felt good sitting in the passenger seat and just enjoying the scenery.
then we came back to bowls and surfed perfect longboard waves. it was uncrowded and the waves were long and smooth.
i thought it would be really hard to get Elias up and surfing. but after a few waves, he got the hang of it and rode the longest waves of his life. i was stoked to see him enjoying surfing so much. my mission is to convert all scuba divers to surfing. haha.
had another fun day. more time outdoors, less time in front of my computer. that’s my goal for this year! Surf Your Dream!
